Deep Dive: The Furlane
Chatting about the history of a new shoe classic
Today I’m trying something new: an in-depth look into one random topic! I love tumbling down rabbit holes online, and thought it would be fun to share what I learn in the form of these designed letters. If you enjoy it, let me know—it’ll help me craft future newsletters you’ll love!
(Psst—if you’re reading on your phone, you may need to tap through to view the full version of this newsletter in your browser.)
My friend Kate was in Paris last fall and posted a story to her Instagram that stopped me in my tracks. It was the inside of a boutique, warm and inviting with wood panels and angled shelves housing a rich rainbow of Mary Janes, a line of velvet confections.
Where is this? I demanded to know.
She wrote back immediately: Flabelus!
Intrigued, I checked out the site, noting the incredible number of unique silhouettes they made. Then there were the colors: across a wide mix of fabrics and happy, contrasting trims, the shoes absolutely popped off the page.
You know how once someone tells you about something, you begin to see it everywhere? That was me and these shoes (though in hindsight, they’ve totally been a thing for a while). In December, I saw a mom and her daughter wearing a matching pair in my neighborhood (adorable), and it was the push I needed to investigate further. Was Flabelus the only game in town? (Definitely not!) What was the typical price point? Were they comfortable? How were they made?
As often happens in this neck of the woods, any kind of shopping research leads to generalized “I need to know everything about this thing” research. And so began the Deep Dive that brought about today’s letter: a look at the furlane. Sure it’s on-trend, but with its comfort, wearability, historical significance, and yes, cuteness, it’s also a new classic.
The espadrille never saw it coming.
Here’s the thing: Notice how so many of these shops sell similar looking furlanes? I suspect a few families and factories in Friuli (say that five times fast) are making every last pair of them, so shop (and save) accordingly. Or, pick the brand that resonates with you most, and wear ‘em proud.
(And take note—isn’t it interesting how much branding and web design changes your affinity for a particular maker?)
I purchased from Cayumas, and bought a pair of their Mary Janes (the “Boheme” style) and their mules (the “Norma” style). I’m a US size 7 and bought a size 37 in each.
I initially worried I’d bought a size too small for both. But the Mary Janes have stretched ever so slightly after several wears, fitting perfectly now. I really like them. They’re so lightweight it’s almost jarring, like you’re wearing a loose sock on your foot. They are extremely comfortable, and despite the velvet upper, have easily withstood long walks around the neighborhood, a trip to the playground, grocery shopping, and date nights.
I should’ve sized up in the mules, though. They fit my foot exactly, but since it’s a mule, my foot tends to slide out of them a bit when I walk, and I could really use that extra real estate in the heel. Lesson learned. Extremely cute silhouette, though. I’ll wear them in spring on low-to-no walking adventures.
I like the Cayumas brand (especially the inner soles, which they line with a variety of Liberty of London fabrics), but given how many small shops produce this style of shoe, and the kaleidoscope of colors available on the market, I’d likely purchase whatever color combination floats my boat, if there’s a next-time-around. Like I mentioned above, I’m guessing most brands are sourcing from the same makers, and as far as I can tell—at least visually—there’s little difference between the construction of the shoes. So if you want to purchase your own pair, I’d say find a color combo and price point that works, and make sure the brand or shop’s shipping and return policy meets your needs. Beyond that, you can’t go wrong!
Want to dive deeper? Check out the list of resources at the end of this newsletter!
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Italy Segreta, “Furlane: From Gondoliers’ Waterways to Red Carpets and Runways”
Editorialist, “A Tale of Two Slippers: The Furlane or the Prince Albert? We Investigate”
Images: Viani, Martino Pietropoli, Life in Italy, Gabriele Rampazzo, Public Bikes, Cayumas, Viani
I loved this read and hope you dive deeper into more fun, random topics like this one! I'm so glad my IG story led to this super interesting history lesson while also feeding my shoe addiction. :)
Obsessed with this edition of your newsletter, despite the fact that I can't wear these shoes hah! The design and formatting feels so uniquely you and I love the thoughtful and in depth approach to the topic. So happy to have you back in the inbox as always!